Merry Christmas to Everyone! Hope you and your four-legged friend(s) enjoyed the holidays. Ruby got plenty of presents, including cookies, that she almost didn't get after this lesson...
"Do you have any duct tape?"
Connie set up the following exercise for me for this week
oo oo oo
I did not get any pictures of this lesson (unfortunately) but I am going to try to describe in words how this worked:
The jumps were set up in a line in the middle of the ring. This is essentially nothing more than a serpentine: approach the first jump to the far left (the one near the gate of the ring in my case), come down the jump, make a half circle to go up the jump in the middle, make another half circle, and come down the last jump to the far right (the far end of the ring for me). To switch things up, make serpentines and circles with this exercise- this can be done going either direction. Seems simple right? With a fit and limber horse, yes. With a tight, out-of-shape, airhead -no.
I anticipated Ruby running out on me the first time we went over this simply because she did it to me last week over the first obstacle. Sometimes, however, the anticipation is what gets you in trouble. Anyway, here is what happened: "trot, trot, trot, HOLYSHITthereISsomethingTHERE!"
In this case, I can't blame Ruby too much for what happened- she simply was not paying any attention whatsoever to what I was asking her to do. It almost seemed like she was off in Rubyland and was startled by the fact that there was a pole in front of her. Unlike last week where she slammed on the brakes and ran out just to be an ass, she saw this jump and had a heart attack...and jumped 6 feet to the left. Unfortunately, I did not go with her (at least I did manage to land on my feet!).
For those who are wondering, I fell off, held onto my reins, and talked to her until she calmed down. I then stepped away from her, asked her to come toward me, patted her head, asked her to back up (I did this a few times just to make sure she was entirely focused and listening to me), and then led her over the jump at the trot. With Ruby, it is very important that I get her to focus on me as soon as I can when she spooks (and her IQ hits 0). I got back on her (Connie went to my car and grabbed some electrical tape I had in there), taped my reins back up, and finished the lesson with no more issues.
Worst part of the lesson: through the process of having a meltdown and trying to calm her down, my reins snapped in half. Why? Oh yeah, because I hate cleaning tack and they were nice and dry. As much of a hassle as it can be, keep up with your tack! There are many different brands of saddle soap, oils, and conditioners. Some riders will clean their tack after every ride. Although this might be a good idea, I realistically will only clean my tack once a month or so. As far as oils go, I highly recommend Neatsfoot oil. For saddle soap and conditioner, I have always used Oakwood Saddle Soap and Conditioner. It cleans, hydrates, and conditions the leather without leaving any sort of residue, so you ride on the saddle after cleaning without worrying about ruining your breeches. The conditioner also makes the leather more supple, and has actually helped with areas that were already drying out or cracked.
My new reins are in the mail.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Darting Out...
"Was that even worth refusing??!"
Exercise for December 8-15 is as follows:
8
8 8
8
These are our "circle jumps." As is consistent with gymnastic good practice, start off with four trot poles placed in a circle; these were placed on a circle approximately 20 feet in diameter. The main focus of this exercise is to ask your horse to jump at a bend and to hit the middle of each jump on the circle. Once you have trotted the circle successfully, raise the poles to jumps. I recommend (based on Connie's advice) jumping these one at a time at the trot, then two at a time at the trot, then trotting all four jumps in the circle at once. If you feel you have enough control and consistency, go ahead and canter this in the same sequence: one jump, two jumps, entire circle. When changing direction, I repeat the one, two, four jump sequence.
Although I have done this exercise in the past, it was more difficult this time for three reasons: the diameter of this circle was smaller than what I have done in the past, Ruby is still not quite where I want her to be (fitness-wise), and Ruby HATES white poles (we are still working on that).
So what was the biggest lesson I learned riding this? Yeah, don't expect your horse to simply go over everything- STEER! Ruby is usually pretty good about going over the jump once I point her to it (as long as I have leg on), but she decided to run out on me this time...
What causes a horse to run out? STEERING ISSUES! If I had to choose between refusing and running out, I would prefer her to run out, since it means it is an issue with my riding and not a behavioral issue with her (as refusing usually is). Note to self: use leg AND hands. Ruby does not like when I "get in her face," so I tend to keep my hands quiet.. too quiet.
Thanks to Dan, my amazing boyfriend, for getting these shots for me!
Exercise for December 8-15 is as follows:
8
8 8
8
These are our "circle jumps." As is consistent with gymnastic good practice, start off with four trot poles placed in a circle; these were placed on a circle approximately 20 feet in diameter. The main focus of this exercise is to ask your horse to jump at a bend and to hit the middle of each jump on the circle. Once you have trotted the circle successfully, raise the poles to jumps. I recommend (based on Connie's advice) jumping these one at a time at the trot, then two at a time at the trot, then trotting all four jumps in the circle at once. If you feel you have enough control and consistency, go ahead and canter this in the same sequence: one jump, two jumps, entire circle. When changing direction, I repeat the one, two, four jump sequence.
Although I have done this exercise in the past, it was more difficult this time for three reasons: the diameter of this circle was smaller than what I have done in the past, Ruby is still not quite where I want her to be (fitness-wise), and Ruby HATES white poles (we are still working on that).
So what was the biggest lesson I learned riding this? Yeah, don't expect your horse to simply go over everything- STEER! Ruby is usually pretty good about going over the jump once I point her to it (as long as I have leg on), but she decided to run out on me this time...
What causes a horse to run out? STEERING ISSUES! If I had to choose between refusing and running out, I would prefer her to run out, since it means it is an issue with my riding and not a behavioral issue with her (as refusing usually is). Note to self: use leg AND hands. Ruby does not like when I "get in her face," so I tend to keep my hands quiet.. too quiet.
Part one: Slamming on the breaks. At first I though she was going to flat out refuse the jump. This is actually pretty easy to "ride out"- just sit up!
Part two: The dart. Ruby can be super quick and darting out to the side is always a pain in the ass. Again, force yourself to sit up and move with the horse (for me, this meant bracing with tons of right leg!). It's funny that I can be a lazy rider, but when something like this happens, my leg position is actually pretty decent.
Part three: GET OVER IT! If your horse refuses or darts out like this, IMMEDIATELY take your horse right back over the jump- it doesn't have to be pretty, just get over it (a difficult concept to grasp for a perfectionist, but Connie has helped me learn how to handle these events really well). Ruby darted right (odd for her, she usually chooses to go left), and I circled her back to the jump. Technically, you want to circle the horse opposite the direction he/she darted, but I think I was so startled I just thought "YOU ARE GOING OVER NOW" and missed that point. Here we are going right back to it. As you can tell from my face, I was not pleased, but she did go over it with no issues the second time.
"Calming poles:" I keep a series of trot poles in the ring at all times, in case Ruby starts to get strong. When cantering the circle, this is especially useful, as she has to come back to the trot after cantering the circle in order to get through the poles. The more we have to focus on, the better Ruby and I tend to do. Connie started us out with just these three poles, but added more and ended up using five.
Thanks to Dan, my amazing boyfriend, for getting these shots for me!
Monday, December 3, 2012
Trot Pole Exercise: Prevent Rushing
"make a circle at the end"
This week's exercise was thus:
o o o 8 (one stride) 8 (two stride) 8
At first, all of these were simply poles. As we worked through the exercise, the last 3 parts were taken up into jumps- again, starting small and building up into verticals. Ruby HATES white poles for whatever reason, so the challenge is to get her to go over without looking straight down each time she gets ready to go over one.
This week was not much different than last week. Ruby has a tendency to rush after the last element in these gymnastics. The second we clear the last component, I begin to ask her for a circle. In the past, this has helped deal with rushing a TON!
This week's exercise was thus:
o o o 8 (one stride) 8 (two stride) 8
At first, all of these were simply poles. As we worked through the exercise, the last 3 parts were taken up into jumps- again, starting small and building up into verticals. Ruby HATES white poles for whatever reason, so the challenge is to get her to go over without looking straight down each time she gets ready to go over one.
The first time through, keeping the exercise at poles. The key here is to keep constant leg, look up, and aim for the center of the poles (and keep my lag back, which I seem to have forgotten here...)
To keep Ruby from freaking out, Connie sets the jumps up one at a time instead of moving all three components up at once. I had Ruby trot the exercise, acting as if the jump was no different than the pole the previous run through
Although I wanted Ruby to trot the final exercise (we are working on muscle building, so trot work is better for us), but I do not punish her for jumping. As long as she is engaged from behind, I slow her after and continue through the line.
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Trot Pole Exercise: Controlling Pace
"wait, wait, wait, squeeze"
Since staring with Connie back in October 2011, I have been exposed to many different training exercises (also called gymnastics) in order to help Ruby with control, bending, rounding, and muscle building. I have been working with Ruby for the past week on the following simple gymnastic (Connie usually sets up a gymnastic that I use for a week, or for about 3 riding sessions, and then set up a new one):
o o o o 8 (one stride) 8
(Imagine you are looking at the gymnastic from the side- the o's represent trot poles, and the 8's represent jumps)
For the first ride through, I trotted this starting with the line of trot poles. The key here is to keep a steady pace so the horse can make it to the jumps with ease and in stride. At first, these jumps were 18" cross-rails, so I asked Ruby to trot over them as if they were the same as the ground poles. Once we could do this without any hesitations or mistakes, I changed direction and asked her to do the poles starting with the cross-rails. After getting both directions at the trot, the jumps were raised to verticals; about 2'. For this part of the gymnastic, I asked her to trot into the poles and then jump the first vertical, trot, and jump the second vertical. Ruby jumps with a squeeze. We then worked with this until I had her trot into the poles, jump the first vertical, one stride, jump the second vertical. This variation is fairly simple: keep leg on, look up, steer straight, and Ruby goes right on over.
The other direction, however...
Going the opposite direction (cantering the left lead), I asked Ruby to canter into the vertical, one stride, jump the second vertical, then trot the poles. If your horse is anything like Ruby, he/she will have a lot of momentum coming into the first vertical, a little less coming into the second, but still too much if you do not hold back for the poles. Asking Ruby to canter, jump, then trot was difficult, but we were able to figure things out after a few tries. Ruby and I both seem to perform better when we have more to do. I usually have trot poles in a circle placed at one (if not both) end(s) of the ring. If we get too forward or she starts moving with her head too high, I ask her to trot her poles on the circle. This helps with bending and encourages her to relax and stretch down (think "long and low")- I highly recommend using these circles!
I personally LOVE gymnastics/grid work. The exercises I do with Ruby can get pretty complex, but I don't usually ask her to school much over 2'6" with the occasional 3'-3'3" jumping course. As Connie always says "if your horse can do the low jumps, she can do the high jumps." Despite how much I disagreed with this at first, I am now learning that this is actually true.
Since staring with Connie back in October 2011, I have been exposed to many different training exercises (also called gymnastics) in order to help Ruby with control, bending, rounding, and muscle building. I have been working with Ruby for the past week on the following simple gymnastic (Connie usually sets up a gymnastic that I use for a week, or for about 3 riding sessions, and then set up a new one):
o o o o 8 (one stride) 8
(Imagine you are looking at the gymnastic from the side- the o's represent trot poles, and the 8's represent jumps)
For the first ride through, I trotted this starting with the line of trot poles. The key here is to keep a steady pace so the horse can make it to the jumps with ease and in stride. At first, these jumps were 18" cross-rails, so I asked Ruby to trot over them as if they were the same as the ground poles. Once we could do this without any hesitations or mistakes, I changed direction and asked her to do the poles starting with the cross-rails. After getting both directions at the trot, the jumps were raised to verticals; about 2'. For this part of the gymnastic, I asked her to trot into the poles and then jump the first vertical, trot, and jump the second vertical. Ruby jumps with a squeeze. We then worked with this until I had her trot into the poles, jump the first vertical, one stride, jump the second vertical. This variation is fairly simple: keep leg on, look up, steer straight, and Ruby goes right on over.
The other direction, however...
Going the opposite direction (cantering the left lead), I asked Ruby to canter into the vertical, one stride, jump the second vertical, then trot the poles. If your horse is anything like Ruby, he/she will have a lot of momentum coming into the first vertical, a little less coming into the second, but still too much if you do not hold back for the poles. Asking Ruby to canter, jump, then trot was difficult, but we were able to figure things out after a few tries. Ruby and I both seem to perform better when we have more to do. I usually have trot poles in a circle placed at one (if not both) end(s) of the ring. If we get too forward or she starts moving with her head too high, I ask her to trot her poles on the circle. This helps with bending and encourages her to relax and stretch down (think "long and low")- I highly recommend using these circles!
When doing a bounce, the rider should stay in two-point position between jumps. I find one strides a little more awkward, especially if your hose is known to refuse. For Ruby, I usually jump, sit a slightly taller two-point, then jump. This keeps me from snapping up, but allows me more control than staying in a full two-point.
When doing pole work, I ride in a half seat. If your horse is slow or not pushing from behind, I would sit these exercises in a full seat until your horse learns to accept your weight
Eyes up! Most horses will hesitate or even refuse if you look down at your poles
Monday, November 26, 2012
Trailer Mayhem
"Get on the damn trailer!"
Ruby had never had much trouble getting on a trailer until a few years ago. Typically, I walk her up to the trailer, go inside in front of her, ask her to "step up," and she comes in (both ramped and stock trailers). However, Ruby and I boarded at a barn where the owners (although super nice people) were not comfortable handling her...and one misunderstanding led to another until Ruby started picking up her old shying/pulling away habits. Although Ruby has a history that obviously caused her to be skittish around people, she is also smart- let her get away with something and she will stomp all over you! I have a suspicion that this is what happened, but back to trailering:
I was getting ready to leave one barn and go to another. A friend brought a trailer for us to use- a small, bright yellow stock trailer that we referred to as the "flapping banana" (the window flaps were also yellow tarp). To cut a long story short: Ruby would have NONE of that. After a few hours of lunging, coaxing, bribing, and pulling, we gave up and decided Ruby there was nothing we could do short of sedating and dragging Ruby into that trailer. Another friend came with her trailer- a white, two-horse ramped trailer.
Considering the bad start already, I knew getting Ruby on this trailer would still be a struggle. Here is what I ended up doing with her:
1. Walk up the ramp as far as we could until Ruby either stopped or balked
2. At the first sign of refusal, I asked Ruby to back up, and made her walk backwards down the ramp
3. Repeat until front feet were in the trailer
4. Backed her out
5. Repeat until all four feet where in the trailer
6. Backed her out
7. Circled her around the trailer until she walked in freely behind me without hesitating
Now, this was a very time-consuming process- about four hours. Could I have lunged her until she almost dropped and dragged her in? Yes. Could I have had people stand behind her with a rope and forced her in? Yes. Could I have given up and waited to try another day? Yes. So why did I spend all that time getting her to do something so simple? Because in the long run, you want your horse to trust AND respect you. The aforementioned methods do not teach the horse the correct response, and I have see too many riders out there use those other "tactics" as shortcuts. Shortly after this escapade, I trailered Ruby in another stock trailer- she went in with very little hesitation. She made it to my church to give a riding demonstration and to give pony rides to little kids! Despite how much I wanted to strangle her that last time, I firmly believe that taking the time to work with her made her subsequent trailer experiences hassle-free.
Horses have a pretty decent memory and are animals of habit. Taking the extra time to thoroughly work though a problem will help both of you in the long run. I am hoping to get Ruby to some shows next spring, and I know that our trailering exercises will be essential!
Ruby had never had much trouble getting on a trailer until a few years ago. Typically, I walk her up to the trailer, go inside in front of her, ask her to "step up," and she comes in (both ramped and stock trailers). However, Ruby and I boarded at a barn where the owners (although super nice people) were not comfortable handling her...and one misunderstanding led to another until Ruby started picking up her old shying/pulling away habits. Although Ruby has a history that obviously caused her to be skittish around people, she is also smart- let her get away with something and she will stomp all over you! I have a suspicion that this is what happened, but back to trailering:
I was getting ready to leave one barn and go to another. A friend brought a trailer for us to use- a small, bright yellow stock trailer that we referred to as the "flapping banana" (the window flaps were also yellow tarp). To cut a long story short: Ruby would have NONE of that. After a few hours of lunging, coaxing, bribing, and pulling, we gave up and decided Ruby there was nothing we could do short of sedating and dragging Ruby into that trailer. Another friend came with her trailer- a white, two-horse ramped trailer.
Considering the bad start already, I knew getting Ruby on this trailer would still be a struggle. Here is what I ended up doing with her:
1. Walk up the ramp as far as we could until Ruby either stopped or balked
2. At the first sign of refusal, I asked Ruby to back up, and made her walk backwards down the ramp
3. Repeat until front feet were in the trailer
4. Backed her out
5. Repeat until all four feet where in the trailer
6. Backed her out
7. Circled her around the trailer until she walked in freely behind me without hesitating
Now, this was a very time-consuming process- about four hours. Could I have lunged her until she almost dropped and dragged her in? Yes. Could I have had people stand behind her with a rope and forced her in? Yes. Could I have given up and waited to try another day? Yes. So why did I spend all that time getting her to do something so simple? Because in the long run, you want your horse to trust AND respect you. The aforementioned methods do not teach the horse the correct response, and I have see too many riders out there use those other "tactics" as shortcuts. Shortly after this escapade, I trailered Ruby in another stock trailer- she went in with very little hesitation. She made it to my church to give a riding demonstration and to give pony rides to little kids! Despite how much I wanted to strangle her that last time, I firmly believe that taking the time to work with her made her subsequent trailer experiences hassle-free.
Ruby and I at church, riding bareback in a halter
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
Pony Kisses
"Ruby, give me a kiss!"
Teaching a horse to do tricks is very similar to how you would teach a dog to do tricks. With Ruby, I actually managed to teach her a little on accident. When I first started riding her, I would finish riding, untack, grab her chin, kiss her, and give her a treat. Every single time. Eventually, she started anticipating what I was going to do, and would reach out to "kiss" me right after I went to grab her chin.
Noticing that she was starting to do this, I then decided to teach her the word, to see if I could get her to kiss me outside of our routine. I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, but it worked! First, I would touch her chin, point to my face, and say kiss. If she reached out to me, I praised her. When she actually touched my face, she got a treat. We continued doing this for a few weeks. Eventually, she learned that the word "kiss" meant that I wanted her to reach out and touch my face- we no longer needed the hand signal.
Getting her to kiss other people was more of a challenge. Sometimes she would listen, and other times she acted like she had no idea what that other person asked her to do. So, I made up a new trick: "go get 'em." I followed the same procedure I had before: touch her chin, point to a friend's face, and say "go get 'em" until she figured out that one too!
Now, Ruby is quite the kisser. Bring a peppermint with you, and you will for sure get a pony kiss!
Teaching a horse to do tricks is very similar to how you would teach a dog to do tricks. With Ruby, I actually managed to teach her a little on accident. When I first started riding her, I would finish riding, untack, grab her chin, kiss her, and give her a treat. Every single time. Eventually, she started anticipating what I was going to do, and would reach out to "kiss" me right after I went to grab her chin.
Noticing that she was starting to do this, I then decided to teach her the word, to see if I could get her to kiss me outside of our routine. I had absolutely no idea what I was doing, but it worked! First, I would touch her chin, point to my face, and say kiss. If she reached out to me, I praised her. When she actually touched my face, she got a treat. We continued doing this for a few weeks. Eventually, she learned that the word "kiss" meant that I wanted her to reach out and touch my face- we no longer needed the hand signal.
Getting her to kiss other people was more of a challenge. Sometimes she would listen, and other times she acted like she had no idea what that other person asked her to do. So, I made up a new trick: "go get 'em." I followed the same procedure I had before: touch her chin, point to a friend's face, and say "go get 'em" until she figured out that one too!
Now, Ruby is quite the kisser. Bring a peppermint with you, and you will for sure get a pony kiss!
My two loves :)
Brayler (brother-in-law) getting a kiss
Julia (twin sister) getting a kiss
Me getting a kiss from my pony
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
From Then to Now
“No sense keeping a hose you can’t catch.”
Horses require one to be patient, compassionate, and understanding. This was even more true with Ruby. I mentioned in an earlier post that Ruby would rear/run backwards when you tried to halter/bridle her or just touch her ears and face. This is called “head shyness.” Head shyness occurs when the horse has been taught to think that touching of the face/ears will result in pain. Although we do not know for sure what happened to Ruby (she was only 2 coming 3 years old when I bought her; all I know is that she came from a western barn), but we assume she was ear-twitched. It took me about six months to get her to trust me enough to let me reach up and grab her ears. From there, we worked together to address her other issues*
*Note: I don’t like calling them “issues” because they are not her fault. No horse is born “mean” or “bad;” a horse develops based on what it has learned from us humans. Despite some frustration I still have with Ruby, none of it is her fault. It takes a pretty terrible person to hurt an animal, and Ruby’s psychological damage at such a young age disgusts me.
We worked on communication, aids, vocal commands. We built trust. We developed respect for each other. The pony that would break the cross-ties and run down the aisle will now ground tie with a single command: “stand.” I can leave her standing alone in the middle of the barn, ask her to stand, leave to get lunch, come back, and she will not have moved. The pony that dragged me around the ring will now stop with just a slight weight shift back and a command to “stop.” She slows down by one gait immediately at “whoa.” She slows down her current gait at “easy.” The stiff pony that made boxes now bends in and circles at “circle” depending on the direction I am looking. She shoulder-ins. The pony that balked at jumps and floored it over ground poles now does complex gymnastics beautifully (we have done every single exercise in Linda Allen’s “101 Jumping Exercises for Horse & Rider”…a few times over) and will let me bareback her over jumping courses as high as 3’3”. The pony that wouldn’t let me touch her face now lowers her head into the bit/bridle/Christmas wreath/necklace/anything with the word “head.”
Sounds like a perfect pony! I love her to death, and we have come so far together, but there is one “issue” I have never been able to fix. Ruby can NOT be caught from the field outside of meal times. Yes, we did joining-up exercises. Yes, we round penned her. Yes, I sat in the field with her for hours at a time trying to get her to come to me. Yes, I paid trainers to take her and help her. I ALWAYS, without fail, got my pony and money back (and it was always significant chunk of change I might add). No, she does not come for grain. No, she does not come for treats. No, you cannot bribe her with her best friend (Angel). She simply will not come in (with you). She is not mean about it- you can walk up to her, touch her back, and talk to her. The second your hand gets near her neck/face (she is turned out with her halter on), she bolts. If she wants to come in, she runs away and will actually come back to you at the gate. Try to touch her, and she runs off again. If I were to open the gate (I refuse to do this unless there is a hurricane/tornado on the way because it is teaching her the wrong behavior) she would walk to her stall and put herself in. If you corner her (also something I avoid), she will realize she is stuck, put her head down (act of submission) and walk to me. She does this to everyone, myself included. So what is the issue? Don’t ask me, I still don’t know even after 5 years!
I paid handsomely for a well-known western trainer to come work with Ruby. For four hours he worked with her (in the snow!) in a round pen. For four hours Ruby ran from him. Not once did he even touch her. He gave me my check back, told me Ruby should be an endurance horse, and said “there is no sense keeping a horse you can’t catch. She would rather die out here in the pen than let me catch her. Get another one.” HA. Yeah, right.
Horses require one to be patient, compassionate, and understanding. This was even more true with Ruby. I mentioned in an earlier post that Ruby would rear/run backwards when you tried to halter/bridle her or just touch her ears and face. This is called “head shyness.” Head shyness occurs when the horse has been taught to think that touching of the face/ears will result in pain. Although we do not know for sure what happened to Ruby (she was only 2 coming 3 years old when I bought her; all I know is that she came from a western barn), but we assume she was ear-twitched. It took me about six months to get her to trust me enough to let me reach up and grab her ears. From there, we worked together to address her other issues*
*Note: I don’t like calling them “issues” because they are not her fault. No horse is born “mean” or “bad;” a horse develops based on what it has learned from us humans. Despite some frustration I still have with Ruby, none of it is her fault. It takes a pretty terrible person to hurt an animal, and Ruby’s psychological damage at such a young age disgusts me.
We worked on communication, aids, vocal commands. We built trust. We developed respect for each other. The pony that would break the cross-ties and run down the aisle will now ground tie with a single command: “stand.” I can leave her standing alone in the middle of the barn, ask her to stand, leave to get lunch, come back, and she will not have moved. The pony that dragged me around the ring will now stop with just a slight weight shift back and a command to “stop.” She slows down by one gait immediately at “whoa.” She slows down her current gait at “easy.” The stiff pony that made boxes now bends in and circles at “circle” depending on the direction I am looking. She shoulder-ins. The pony that balked at jumps and floored it over ground poles now does complex gymnastics beautifully (we have done every single exercise in Linda Allen’s “101 Jumping Exercises for Horse & Rider”…a few times over) and will let me bareback her over jumping courses as high as 3’3”. The pony that wouldn’t let me touch her face now lowers her head into the bit/bridle/Christmas wreath/necklace/anything with the word “head.”
Sounds like a perfect pony! I love her to death, and we have come so far together, but there is one “issue” I have never been able to fix. Ruby can NOT be caught from the field outside of meal times. Yes, we did joining-up exercises. Yes, we round penned her. Yes, I sat in the field with her for hours at a time trying to get her to come to me. Yes, I paid trainers to take her and help her. I ALWAYS, without fail, got my pony and money back (and it was always significant chunk of change I might add). No, she does not come for grain. No, she does not come for treats. No, you cannot bribe her with her best friend (Angel). She simply will not come in (with you). She is not mean about it- you can walk up to her, touch her back, and talk to her. The second your hand gets near her neck/face (she is turned out with her halter on), she bolts. If she wants to come in, she runs away and will actually come back to you at the gate. Try to touch her, and she runs off again. If I were to open the gate (I refuse to do this unless there is a hurricane/tornado on the way because it is teaching her the wrong behavior) she would walk to her stall and put herself in. If you corner her (also something I avoid), she will realize she is stuck, put her head down (act of submission) and walk to me. She does this to everyone, myself included. So what is the issue? Don’t ask me, I still don’t know even after 5 years!
I paid handsomely for a well-known western trainer to come work with Ruby. For four hours he worked with her (in the snow!) in a round pen. For four hours Ruby ran from him. Not once did he even touch her. He gave me my check back, told me Ruby should be an endurance horse, and said “there is no sense keeping a horse you can’t catch. She would rather die out here in the pen than let me catch her. Get another one.” HA. Yeah, right.
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