Horse Transportation Services

"why can't you just ride your horse there?"

Why not indeed! With all of this research on horse transportation services, that very well may be easier.

I have accepted a position as a Sales Engineer with a company based out of Vancouver, WA. I will be working for them remotely in Huntsville, AL. This means Ruby will need to find a ride from our home in Virginia to our new home in Huntsville!

Here is what I have learned- You have two main options:

1. Commercial carrier: commercial horse transportation services should be licensed (in their business's state as well as the state you are traveling to) and insured. If you aren't sure if a carrier is licensed, go to the Department of Transportation and see if they have a DOT#. Insurance coverages range anywhere between the $thousands to the $millions depending on the type of policy. Your best bet here is just to ask!  The only real downside I see from using a commercial carrier is that your horse will be on a trailer with a handful of strange horses. Your route will zig-zag to pick up and drop off other horses along the way. This can result in a one day trip turning into multiple days.

2. Individual carrier: individuals are usually not licensed or insured- this is why their prices can get so low; no insurance overhead. With individuals, you can usually find an A-to-B trip (meaning they will do longer trips in one sitting instead of making stops). Since they are not licensed, it can be really difficult to tell if the carrier is "legit." I highly recommend asking fellow riders to refer someone, or to do some heavy duty research- find reviews online if you can.

Here is my list so far:

Name	Licensed	Insured
Equine Express	Yes	Yes
Jimmy Parlier Horse Transport	Yes	Yes
JDiamondD Equine Express	No	No
Sallee Horse Van Transport	x	x
David Garnet	No	No
Dejarnette Horse Transport	x	x
Creech Horse Transportation	x	$2,000
Peace of Mind Horse Transport	Yes	Yes
Horse Jitney Horse Transport	DOT# 1721853	$1,000,000
C & E Horse Transportation	Yes	Yes
Brook Ledge	Yes	Yes
MJR Horse Transportation	DOT# 12485680	Yes
Travis Grubb	No	No

Most of these transporters will give you a free quote- the ones above range anywhere between $0.90 and $2.20 per loaded mile. Of the above, Brook Ledge and C & E Horse Transportation were unable to take us (they take horses up and down the eat coast, but do not go outside their routes). Unless you have a fancy horse going to Wellington/Ocala, don't bother with Brook Ledge- they were quite rude when I inquired. C & E was helpful, and recommended MJR.

01/08/2014 Update: I have decided to go with Peace of Mind Equine Care and Transport. Doug was very helfpul and understanding- for $590, he will take Ruby from VA to AL for me in one single trip. He is DOT licensed and carries a $750,000 insurance policy. Hoping for the best, and I will meet my pony at our new home on January 22nd!

Happy Holidays!

Happy Holidays from Ruby!

Deworming Your Hose: When and Why?

"what does 'high shedder' mean?"

Although most barns have their own system or schedule for deworming their horses, there are a few things you should consider when deciding what is best for your horse. In my experience, there are two main ways this is done:

a. deworm based on fecal samples
b. deworm every X weeks

My method of choice is a- and here is why:
The horse industry struggles with parasite issues predominately because of parasite resistance. What this means is that horse owners will use a particular brand of dewormer to the point that it no longer works- the parasites adapt so that the dewormer no longer kills them (similar principle in humans with antibiotics and bacterial resistance; this is why we do not give people antibiotics every single time someone is sick- we make sure they actually have a bacterial infection first). This raises a few concerns, most importantly, how do I know if my dewormer is even working?

Well, you don't -unless you have a test done, or your horse becomes ill enough to show signs of parasite infestation.

Most every vet clinic will offer some sort of parasite prevention program. With my vet, you pay upfront for three fecal tests to be done during the year (sometimes more tests are needed if your horse is a high shedder). Once the test results are in, the vet will suggest a course of action: what type of dewormer to use (based on shed count and the species of the parasite), and how much your horse needs. This way, you are only treating horses that need to be treated.

The most common parasites in horses are called strongyles.

What do the shed counts mean?
The test is looking for the parasite egg count. Low shedders refer to horses with a low egg count, meaning that their immune system is able to keep the number of parasites down. High shedders refer to horses with a high egg count because of an inability to naturally keep these parasites in check. Although it is estimated that only about 30% of the horse population is classified as high shedders, they will produce 80% of the parasite eggs in the pasture! This is why it is EXTREMELY important that all boarders participate in some kind of deworming schedule or program: if one horse is not being dewormed, it can very well contaminate the field and expose the other horses to high levels of parasites.

Is there a way to get rid of the parasites in the field?
The goal of deworming is not to get rid of all parasites (that would be impossible!), but to keep the number to a manageable level. That being said, if you have multiple horses in a field that are having issues, veterinarians will usually recommend more frequent doses for these horses. Some people advise harrowing the fields to break up the manure to keep parasite levels down. However, this method is a bit controversial, as it is not sure whether it really helps or not. A good rule of thumb is to keep the fields clean- remove manure periodically, do not spread manure over grazing fields, and practice good field management.

Isn't the deworming program kind-of a scam? I mean, why would I pay to see what is going on if I regularly deworm my horse?
Actually, some people SAVE money by using the program! For instance, last year on the program, Ruby was a 'low shedder' in all three of her tests. This means she did not need to be dewormed (I did do it once just to kill tapeworms which are not included in the egg count). If my sample program was $30 for the year, well, that is much less than the previous barn, where I was paying $11-$14 every 90 days for their deworming program. Plus, you need to consider the parasite resistance: what do you think happens when you give your horse a dewormer that, unbeknownst to you, is not effective? You are wasting your money and offending your horses gut...for nothing. You are also causing a serious issue for other boarders because your horse will continue to contaminate the field, exposing them to high counts of worms that should otherwise not be present.

The fecal sample program is fairly new, but please do not discount it's importance for the sake of 'tradition.' Also keep in mind that your decision in how to care for your horse is your sole responsibility, but when it effects others' horses, it is even more important to gain as much knowledge as you can in order to make an informed decision.

Fun Show at Heldergate

"I guess all we needed was some war paint!"

Had a blast at Heldergate's "friends and family" show last weekend! Ruby was super adorable in her war pony costume, the people were great, the judge was excellent, and the food was delicious.

Above and right: Ruby and I showing off her costume! Although she is NOT a fan of having her face touched, Ruby was a champ about letting me put that paint circle around her eye.

I used a water-based face paint which I picked up a Michael's (most craft stores have this sort of thing). My one warning is this: be prepared for a stained horse! This did not wash off as well as I had hoped, and my pony ended up having a pink face!

Left: Ruby and I in our Special Hunter class. We competed in Green Hunter (wt, wtc, 18" o/f) and the Special Hunter o/f. For the Greens, we decided to trot the course (6 jumps at 18"-2'), mostly for my benefit. The judge then requested that we canter for our last class....Ruby was PERFECT! Nice and relaxed, great rhythm, perfect distances, and she even got her lead changes. Considering the long road we have taken to get our confidence back, this is huge for us- and finally gives me hope that we are back on our way to getting where we once were (3' jumper courses).

After the show, the judge approached me to say that, in all her years of judging, she had only seen a few teams that were perfect for each other- and that Ruby and I were one of them! I get comments fairly often from trainers and boarders about how obviously Ruby is bonded to me, but I had no idea it translated that much into our riding. Love this pony!

The Woes of Being a Show Hitchhiker

"I wish I could go, but my ride fell through!"

Now that Ruby and I have decided to give the show world a try, we have discovered (with much pain, disappointment, and frustration) how incredibly difficult it can be just to get your horse to a show. I have met many barn-mates who were fortunate enough to be born into families who had the money to buy so-and-so a nice new truck and trailer (and chiropractic visits, and nice new saddles, and hey -even board costs!), but this was not my fate. Any and all horse-related financial burdens are entirely my own.

Growing up as a very strong-willed, independent woman, nothing irks me more than having to rely on someone else- especially when Ruby is involved. But what options are even out there?

1. Continue to "beg" rides off horse-y friends who have the equipment you need. This can include a wide variety of arrangements: some friends will take you and your horse for free, some will charge you gas, some will charge you gas and time, and some will refuse to take you at all. A general rule of thumb when hitchhiking for a ride is to offer to pay for gas -or in my case, I generally offer to pay for my ride's classes provided it does not overly exceed the standard going rate for hauling (about $1.75 per mile in my area).

2. Look for a professional hauling company. Although this will guarantee your horse is being transported by a professional (with the proper truck to haul the trailer, and up-to-date inspection stickers), these can be very pricey or completely unavailable depending on your location.

3. Only participate in "home" shows. There are plenty of boarding barns out there that will host shows. This is a very economical option for those who are boarding at one such facility. If not, well...

4. Buy your own trailer. Before we hop into the "okay, trailer shopping!" train, there are some important things to consider: Do you have a truck that has the towing capacity to safely tow your trailer AND everything inside (shavings, tack box, horse, buckets, etc.)? Does this truck also have the stopping capacity required to safely come to a complete stop with this load? If no, you may not want to buy a trailer just yet- if you can't tow it, you will again be at the mercy of others to find a truck that can tow you.
   *note: not all is lost if you do not have a truck. You might find a fellow rider who has the truck but no trailer- you can always try to arrange something in this case. If a friend provides the truck and you provide the trailer, plan to go to show together free of charge.

So what else do you need to know before going trailer shopping? 

Right now, I have figured the following:
1. It the trailer safe? Can I put it to use right away? Are any repairs needed?
2. Does the trailer come with a title (watch out for scams here!)
3. Does the trailer have working brakes/lights?
4. How many horses does it hold (I am looking for two horse)?
5. When was the trailer last inspected?
6. How old is the trailer (do some research on trailer models to see if it is what you need)?
7. Is the trailer bumper-pull or gooseneck?
8. Is the trailer a slant-load or straight-load? Ramp or stock?
9. How heavy is the trailer? Is is steel frame? Aluminum? (Aluminum will be much lighter, but some argue not as safe)

I will add as I figure out more!

Ruby's First Horse Show

"Do you want to ride to win, or to train?"

I have always wanted to show Ruby, but, after all the road blocks, pitfalls, and complications, I assumed this was just not our future. After some nagging and harassing, a friend of mine finally convinced me to at least give showing a try.

Connie met me at the show (I asked her to be there in case I decided to freak out), and asked me "Do you want to ride to win, or to train?"

I said train, since this was our first show and I had no idea what Ruby would think of the whole thing!

Despite the 94 degree heat and absurd humidity, I tacked up my pony and headed out to the schooling ring. Walk, look around, walk, SPOOK at the flower box in the corner that eats horses for sure, walk, trot, rush past aforementioned horse-eating box, trot, relax. We left the schooling ring (we actually schooled in the wrong ring, but hey- first show means we are allowed a few mistakes!). Heat. Humidity. Cold Bath. More heat and more humidity...for a while there I though we would both drop! The classes I wanted to do (pony pleasure) were near the beginning of the show, so we did not have long to wait. I entered the walk-trot class, no expectations, and determined to get her to bend as we have been practicing in our lessons. She was perfect and we won the class. Well then, might as well do the next walk-go as you please class right? I mean, I can just walk-trot again...

Which we did. And won. With only one more class in the division, might as well do that too (since the heat hadn't quite killed us yet either). Won that too!

Super proud of my pony, not even for winning (although that is nice of course!). I knew she was nervous, but she stayed calm, listened well, and (as long as I didn't get out of her sight) behaved.

Horse Personalities

"You and Ruby are exactly the same!"

Not going to lie, the first time I heard this, I was extremely offended! Ruby was moody, unpredictable, and (quite frankliy) a brat when I first met her. You can obviously see why I was not pleased when people kept telling me this!

Further into our relationship, I actually saw this to be true: we are both control freaks, pleasant with people but like our space, neither of us likes kids, both of us love cats and simply tolerate dogs, both of us take time to warm up to new people/are slightly nervous around new people, and (when situations get uncertain) both of us look to the other to figure it out (whoops on my part, but we both equally bail in certain circumstances).

I found this funny blog that lets you take a test to see your horse's personality: Horse Personality Test.

Ruby was: the Perfectionist (go figure)



Shy, suspicious, sensitive! Are you a solid, consistent enough rider with low enough expectations to be able to work with this horse? They need a solid, well planned out training program to be able to perform well. They want a job that they can perform perfectly. Each step in the training process needs to be methodical and repeated until they really, really get it. If things get too hard to handle, this horse's evasion is simply to leave - mentally, emotionally, and physically if possible. If they find a job they like and are allowed to learn it slowly and correctly, they will give you an endless amount of effort.

*When you take this test, you will also be given a few pages that describe your horse, how they react to certain situations, and training methods that work with this personality. Despite my usual suspicions, this breakdown was Ruby almost to a 't'!

Finally, some information that supports my anti-cookie-cutter beliefs on horse training!

Equine Photography- Protecting Your Images

"Wow, did she really steal my picture for her website?!"

I have no experience in photography and no training (besides skimming over the user's manual of my camera), but even I am aware of the copyright protection that your photos should have when you upload them to the internet. There is nothing more frustrating than seeing someone take one of your photos for their personal use without paying for it! I have had this happen to me; I got on a website and there was one of my images- no credit given at all- being used as marketing material...

So what can you do to protect your images?

1. Picasa: The easiest way to keep others from stealing your photos is to watermark them. Picasa is a free photo editing software that does a simplified version of a watermark for you- choose the photos you want to watermark, click file, click export, and check the watermark photos box. Enter your name here. When you export, your name will appear on the bottom right corner of your photos.

2. Photoshop: This program (depending on the version) can get pretty pricey, but it can do anything and everything you would ever need in terms of editing power and protection.

3. My way: I am as cheap as they come, and look for products that are free to use. Instead of having just my name on the photos, I decided to make myself a logo (stingray! my favorite animal) using Inkscape. It is a fairly intuitive vector design software that I use at work for graphics design- not nearly as fancy as Adobe's line of products, but it gets the job done. I also downloaded another program called TSR Watermark to add my Inkscape logo to my pictures.

Although there is always the asshole out there who will crop your watermark or photoshop it for themselves, I like to think that most people will respect your work. For more information on how to better protect your images and for information on copyrights, see here: Protect Images Online.

Below are my favorite pictures of my friend Lauren Thomas and "Evel Knievel" (Titan) and my trainer Connie Warner and Harry de Leyer's "Dutch Juliet" (Juliet). I stick my logo in the most annoying spot possible so it is more difficult to crop out.

Making Work 'Fun'

"You might not want to come out today- the ground is wet and the ring is flooded."

The biggest setbacks in my riding at the moment involve the weather- the past week has been somewhat akin to a monsoon...right when the sun starts to come out, I get in my car, start driving out to the barn, and the rain starts to pour again!

I am a firm believer that you should NOT show up at the barn just to ride your horse. There are plenty of other things for you to do to spend some quality time together (grooming, bathing, just hanging out) or to work in a different way (lunging, hand exercises, stretches, tricks).

For Ruby and I, it is even more important that we spend as much time together as we can. My job as a controls engineer is in a constant battle with Ruby to take over my life, and, unfortunately, sometimes it wins. After being sent off on site for 3 months last summer, our relationship suffered a bit of a strain- I came back, and Ruby gave me the cold shoulder ("you ditched me and expect me to listen to you? -hell no!"). With her, I found that working on the ground is a great way to get her to focus, listen, and gain respect for me. Usually, I just grab a lead rope and ask her to do some basic commands: walk-up, back-up, turn, and stand. In the ring and in the barn, she is a champ! I can get her to the point where I only need to use a hand signal to get her to do what I want (wave hand forward for come here, point at her chest to back up, point to her shoulder in the direction I want her to turn, and hold my hand up to get her to stand). The field is another story (she gets so focused on wanting to be with her friends that she pretty much ignores me, but we are working on that).

For jumping exercises, it really depends on how high YOU can jump!

Once Ruby is listening to me, she is pretty good about letting me lead her over obstacles, provided that I make it over them too (try not to trip over things- it doesn't end well!). Especially with Ruby not wanting to jump consistently/reliably for me anymore under saddle, I have decided that she needs to be comfortable jumping without me on her first (lunging would be easier, but we haven't quite mastered that yet).

Remember, repetition is boring to you too! Mix things up, and try to keep your horse interested. If he/she is watching you and licking/chewing, you are doing something right! My hope with Ruby is to remind her that jumping is fun, and is not a big deal- if she ever forgives me for ditching her for my work...

Sometimes it can be hard to convince yourself to drive out (in my case, 32 miles one way!) too see your horse, but trust me, it is worth it- even in the rain and mud :)

Going out of Business: Economy and Equine Ownership

"I deeply regret to tell you that (we) have decided to close the boarding operation..."

Damnit. Of course- I finally find the perfect barn, my horse is happy and her behavior does a complete turn-around, the trainer (CJ Weldon) is great...and the barn goes out of business shortly after we get comfortable...

Unfortunately, this is not the first time that this has happened to Ruby and I. When I first started taking riding lessons, things were a little different: board at a decent facility with both and indoor and outdoor was about $400/month. Hay was $2 per bale. Fields had plenty of grass. Now, years later, a decent barn with an outdoor only is about $600 and hay is close to $8 per bale. To compensate, many barn owners pack as many horses as they can into a field, which tears up the grass and causes more expenses to go into hay and feed, meaning your horse gets to live in what is called a "dry lot." I have always been picky about field management at boarding facilities, so this is a deal breaker for me. But why does this happen?

Through my observation, I have found that one cannot have a horse boarding facility in this area and still be profitable. Let's face it, the economy is struggling, people cannot afford to pay an arm and a leg for board, and the cost to feed horses is steadily increasing. In order to offer board at a reasonable price and still make it, barns need to offer other services, such as training, sales, or lessons. In case you were wondering, this is the third barn at which I have boarded that went out of business, and all three were explicitly for boarders.

Where to next?
Connie, CJ, and I have discussed some options, and here is the dilemma: Ruby seems to really like CJ, but to board her with her would be hitting the margins of my budget. Which is more important: the spoiled pony, or my money? For now, I will follow the rest of the boarders (and CJ) to the farm across the street...I am hoping Ruby will continue to make good progress there so we can finally get our jumping confidence back! In the meantime, I will continue working with Connie (and Jimmy)...making progress toward my next lesson with Harry de Leyer!

Riding arena at the new barn!

Crest or Automatic Release?

"Reach for her ears!"

When I first started learning how to jump, this was my trainer's (at that time) favorite phrase to yell at me as I was going over the jump. I remember being told to "stick your butt out, shoulders up, bend at the hip, and reach for the ears." In the beginning, I was told to use the horse's neck for support (i.e. put weight on your hands on the horse's neck). This is called a crest release.

George Morris is credited with coining the term "crest release," but there is no definite proof that he invented the actual "skill." For beginners going over small fences or poles, the crest release can be used to help the rider gain confidence, get a feel for the horse's jump, and focus on other areas of the position such as heels or shoulders. Unfortunately, a lot of riders never grow out of this phase. This means unbalanced riders who lack the core to stay off the neck are able to compete in higher jumping classes. But think about it: how can you expect your horse to have good jumping form when you are weighing down the front end? Because of the insecurity of the rider's seat, the crest release also often allows the rider to pinch with the knee instead of pushing weight down into the heel; weakening the rider's stability and ability to get back with the horse's motion after landing...plus you now have your reins to collect back up! After practicing this release for so long, I knew it would be a hard habit to beak.

The dreaded crest release. My hands are on her neck, not following her mouth. Although my leg is decent, I am still probably not balanced, which is why Ruby made no effort to jump this for me. Typical Hunter "riding position": butt out, hands below the chin, weight in the hands.








Practicing the automatic on Jimmy: when I first started, I grabbed mane with the outside hand and pulled my inside hand out. This was to get used to the feeling of not having my hands on the neck. At first, practice keeping your hands slightly below the crest. As you get more comfortable, start sliding your hands down to move with the horse's head (try not to use 'puppy paws hands' as I did here- thumbs on top!).

Awkward angle (and a short spot!), but you can see that my hands are not resting on his neck, but sliding down his shoulder and following the bit. Had I used the crest release, I would have caught him in the mouth with this spot, and had a very unhappy horse!





In order to get off your horse, get out of his way, and give him the room he needs to stretch out over the jump while still maintaining contact (for control), riders should be using the "automatic release" or "following release." If you are not balanced enough to follow with both hands, try practicing at first as I did by grabbing mane with the outside hand and following with the inside hand. At first this was pretty confusing, and Connie had me actually stick my inside hand out to make sure I really got it off the horse's neck. As you get a feel for how your hands and elbows should be following the horse's mouth, start doing this with both hands. It helped me to think "follow the shoulder"- you want to have a straight line from the horse's mouth to your elbow. I noticed this right off the bat, but the automatic release gave my horse a more round jump, and added a solid foot to what we had been doing before!

In a sport where "looks matter," it is a bit disturbing that some H/J judges actually prefer to see the crest release. In any case, a rider should always do what is best for the horse, despite the show fad. If your ribbons are more important than making your horse happy and comfortable...well, let's just say I feel really bad for your horse!

If you would like to see some really nice automatic releases, google Bill Steinkraus.

Horse riding position then:

Horse Riding Position now:

Seriously, what happened? Open up a horse magazine now and I guarantee, 90% of the riders will look like Richard Spooner. The biggest excuse I hear is "but the rider is balanced"...yes, on the horses neck. No wonder these horses now have to be hundreds of thousands of dollars- not many horses would take that crap! Want to try it on Ruby? I promise you will be dumped.

 

Full Seat or Half Seat?

"why do trainers always teach as if their students are riding German Warmbloods?"

You know, I never really did think about the fact that there are many different styles of riding...until I met Connie. For the most part, I did exactly as I was told, and can remember hearing "sit up" and "sit back" or "drive with your hips." Since this is all I knew, it is how I rode Ruby.

I have been taking lessons and showing one of Connie's horses- Jimmy. As a thoroughbred that does not like when you sit on his back, I have to ride him in a very light seat; sometimes in half seat. Before Connie, I had always been taught this was wrong: "sit up straight, shoulders back, spine flat and perpendicular to your hips." At first I was not quite convinced that Connie's way was going to work, but Jimmy sure seemed to like it; in fact, he started moving more freely, relaxed his head, and started stretching down.

For show purposes, most judges (especially in equitation) still like to see you sitting upright, but for hunter under saddle (HUS), they actually prefer Jimmy's lighter half-seat style. Getting off your horse's back allows the horse to move on his own, and shows that the horse accepts the weight of the rider while still engaging from behind.

This was from my last show with Jimmy (we ended up winning champion in this equitation division, which sort-of confused my show theory for my full vs. half seat argument), but you can see that I am slightly forward, instead of sitting straight up. The key here is to allow a small angle at your hips, but to still keep your shoulders back (all trainers I have met have been anti-slouching! That seems to be one thing they DO agree on!). My fingers are not closed and my thumbs aren't up, but that seems to be an old habit I can't get rid of!

If you hear of a new way of doing things, try it before you criticize it! Although my past trainers would want to strangle me for riding this way, it seems to be Jimmy's preference (and the judges' in this case)! I will admit, however, that this seat is less secure, so I would only try this on a horse that is reliable- if he/she spooks, you probably won't be able to stay on since you center of gravity is slightly shifted.

I am glad that Connie has forced me to branch out- even riding and showing a horse (Cole) in dressage- something I had certainty never done before! I know from personal experience that many riders choose one discipline..then bash the other disciplines for being sub-par. Remember, each discipline has it's own faults (racing puts strain on underdeveloped bone tissue, hunters are notorious for drugging or lunging until dead before shows, jumpers throw kids on horses and freight-train in a dangerous matter, dressage is know for the terrible practice of Rollkur, gaited disciplines will use inhumane methods to encourage the horse to high step, etc).


As long as you are safe, ethical, and having fun, maybe there is no right or wrong way to ride- let your horse tell you what he/she likes best. Just remember that making a judge happy should never be higher of a priority over making your horse happy.

New Location: Henebry Farm

"There are plenty of things to do here!"

I have decided to move Ruby to Henebry Farm. It is a beautiful facility, about 40 minutes west of my condo in Richmond. Many of the boarders are members of Deep Run Hunt Club (so I should be able to hitch a ride with one of them on occasion), the farm has 120 acres of trails (including jumps), 7 square miles of fields for hacking, a lighted sand ring with jumps, cross country courses, and both a fully closed barn and shed row barns.

 (left: Ruby in front of the new barn!)

Adjusting to a new barn is hard on both horse and rider. For the horse, moving barns is equivalent of pulling your child out of school, moving to an entirely different city, and sending them off to school- with no connections and with no idea whatsoever how to find anything. Naturally, horses will (for the most part) stay with the same herd. Asking them to leave their herd and try to fit into a new one is super stressful -although, some horses seem to be able to fit right in no problem. Ruby has always been the "hi, I'm Ruby, now leave me be" type- I am not entirely sure if she just likes to be alone or if she somehow alienates herself from other horses..either way, she is scarily similar to me personality-wise. I would probably want to be off doing my own thing too.

Our move was mostly uneventful (mostly). Although I respect that the management has more horse knowledge than I, I really would have liked if they had let me load and unload my own horse. I would consider this barn a bit "old-fashioned" in training- I would have spent all day if I had to, moving up and backing Ruby out of the trailer until she loaded herself, but those who came to help insisted on using their methods. Typically, I would have jumped in and said something, but I have decided to sit back for a bit- maybe it is time to try something new, or maybe seeing there are scarier ways to do things will make Ruby appreciate how good she has it with me!

Still too early to tell how things will pan out for us. The scariest thing about moving barns is waiting to see if the people you are paying (and trusting) to take care of your horse, do so at your standards! One of these days I will be able to build my own little farm, and boarding will be a non-issue. Until then, let's hope everything works out for us here!

Finding a Barn that Fits Your Needs

"But what if Ruby doesn't like it there?"

Let's face it, horse people are crazy. Although finding a nice boarding facility seems like it shouldn't be too much trouble- it is! For some reason, it can be extremely difficult (and frustrating) to find a barn that really knows how to take care of horses, runs like a business, and is drama-free. I was fortunate enough to find an amazing barn for Ruby: Hundred Acre Woods Stables.

I am leaving next week.

This has been a very difficult decision. First, let me say this: Hundred Acres is hands down the best barn at which I have ever boarded. There was grass in the fields, management kept herd sizes down so that this was the case (1 horse per acre), herds were created based on personality to prevent fights, horses were given quality feed and hay, the riding ring was well manicured, the people were friendly, management was always willing to accommodate my needs with Ruby, and the board price was reasonable.

So why leave?

I can't say enough good things about this barn, but I have given up on my dream of taking Ruby to a horse show since I have been there, primarily because the barn is so laid back- too laid back almost! I can acknowledge the fact that I am pretty darn lazy. Since I am the only jumper at this barn, I need to come, set up jumps, ride, take down jumps, and remove anything I pulled in (standards and poles) from the ring before I leave. Secondly, it is very difficult for me to get the motivation to do a solid ride all by myself. A few of the lovely ladies at this barn would watch me ride, critique, and set poles for me when we come to the barn at the same time, but come on, they shouldn't have to do that for me. As much as I have enjoyed this barn, I have decided that I really need to be somewhere that has jumps in the ring (so I won't have to try to set my own courses) and where there are other riders actively practicing in the same discipline.

How do you find a new barn?

I have been using NewHorse as my primary source, but VA Equestrian is another good site (if you live in VA), and even local horse magazines such as HorseTalk will have ads. Once you choose a handful of barns, go see them for yourself! I can't convey how disappointed I have been, seeing a super nice barn online and then showing up at a dump!

There are also some very important questions that you should ask: remember, you are trusting other people to take care of your horse- be sure to ask the right questions so that the new barn will be a good fit for you, your horse(s), and then barn management.

Questions to ask:

What do you feed?
Do you charge to add supplements?
What type of hay? Is hay grown on the property? How much hay will my horse get?
How much turn out do the horses get per day? Is this a seasonal rotation?
Under which conditions are horses NOT turned out (bad weather, storms, etc)?
How large are typical herd sizes?
Do you rotate fields/exercise field management?
Do horses have grass year round? When do you throw hay in the fields?
Does the barn have barn hours?
What type of shavings do you use, and how often are stalls cleaned? Stripped? Are stalls matted?
Do horses have proper ventilation when in the barn? Windows? Fans for the summer?
What is your de-worming schedule?
What farrier/vet(s) do you use? Can I choose/bring my own?
What training/lesson services are available? Can I bring my own trainer?
Do you go to shows? Is trailering available?Is there trailer parking available?
What facilities are open to use for your boarders?
What is the cost of board? What does this include? What does this NOT include?
What are your lay-up policies in the event that my horse in injured and has special needs?
Who will be handling my horse? What are their qualifications? Horse handling experience?
Will I be notified if changes are being made to my horse's (stall, field, feed, etc.)?
Can I bring visitors to the property? Pets?
How many boarders do you have? What is your boarder turn-around? How long has your longest boarder stayed with you?
What are grounds for dismissal? Have boarders been thrown out in the past?
Does the owner/trainer/manager live on premise?
What sets your barn apart from others in the area?

Other questions can be asked based on you/your horse's needs. For example: I am looking for a barn that has open hours (so I can ride after work), has a ring with jumps, has lights (so I can ride at night), provides quality hay and feed per each horses' needs (doesn't just feed all horses the same thing), practices good field management so there is grass most months of the year, allows an outside trainer, is willing to work with Ruby's "being caught" issues, is run by "horse people" with experience and references, and is a barn that goes to shows without being a "snotty brat show barn." Ideally, I would like to have a barn manager that does this as a full-time job, not just to pay the bills (been there done that- doesn't really work for us).

You might also be surprised at the power of Google- look for barns you might be interested in and see if anyone has left a review. Also ask around your barn circle to see what someone else might know about the barns (we all know how fast gossip spreads around the horse community!).

Check out your options, have fun, and good luck!

Control Freaks and Riding

"relax."

At one point, I was so trusting with Ruby that I rode her bareback in the woods, barreling down the trails, through the creeks, and over fallen logs. Most of the time, I had so little contact on my reins that if she tripped I would lose them. Somewhere between then and now, I learned how to be a lot less reckless, and how dangerous riding could really be.

As we started doing more complex exercises and I began to ask her to do more for me, we ran into some complications:

1. I am a control freak when I ride
2. I am a perfectionist

It got to the point that if one little thing went wrong (wrong distance, knocked a rail, bad turn), I would fall apart. Connie has helped me get over that, for the most part, but the first fact still remains: I am a control freak. This means I micromanage.

I found a really interesting article online that summed up everything I was doing wrong. Sure, Ruby wasn't always perfect either, and she would dart out, refuse jumps, buck, or spin on occasion- I mean, she is a mare. But what if the issues we have been having recently are in fact caused by me? As much as we riders hate to hear it, the horse isn't bad; the horse does things that we the rider teach him to do. Perhaps, in my anticipation of her being bad, I am locking down on her to the point that she is no longer motivated to go. Would you want to jump something when your rider is locked down on you and could possible catch you in the mouth?

I didn't think so.

The article is called "How to Stop Micro-Managing Your Horse (and What to do Instead):

"How do you feel when you’re micro-managed? Do you feel inadequate? Does it cause you to get angry? Maybe you freeze and it causes your brain not to respond.

Since you know you’re a smart, talented and creative person, why on earth would someone want to micro-manage you? You’ve never given them a reason to.

Due to this situation, you have little or no trust or respect for the micro-manager; therefore you may decide to not put in as much effort. Why should you? You’re just going to be micro-managed… right?
In this series, I’ve touched on key areas that are important to building a great relationship with your equine companion, and it wouldn’t be complete without covering the subject of micro-management.
Do You Micro-manage Your Horse?

Unless you’re someone who won the lottery or your family has a lot of money, you’ve probably at one time or another experienced someone micro-managing you at a job.

Parents are masters at it. So are significant others. Most of us have those individuals in our lives, so I would be willing to bet that you know what micro-management feels like.

For the logical types, here’s a definition of micro-management:

To manage or control with excessive attention to minor details.” ~ Dictionary.com

In the field of computer science, it’s typical especially if a Waterfall approach to software development is used rather than an Agile approach which promotes self-management mixed with just enough project management, but not too much.

As for the equine industry, I see the micro-management bug often.

Do your best to put yourself in a state of feeling micro-managed. You may have had a recent experience so the feelings will still be new.

Now, imagine you’re riding your horse and she doesn’t want to maintain gait at the trot. Maybe she trots for a little bit and then walks, not wanting to go. Worst yet she may stop, backup (without you asking), rear, or cow kick each time you attempt to speed her up.

Right before she breaks gait, you decide to put on the pressure attempting to “make” her speed up. Instead, the opposite happens. She becomes dull to your legs and she gets worse instead of better.

Think of how your horse feels. For a moment, empathize with her. Why is she becoming less motivated?

Think back to how you feel when you’re micro-managed. What does the micro-manager do when you become less motivated?
Conventional Strategies

The typical micro-manager in the equine world usually doesn’t know she’s doing it. Rather, the monkey see, monkey do syndrome takes over and she applies methods that are not in the horse’s best interest.

Those methods also cause the relationship between the horse and the human to become compromised.

If an equine doesn’t go, people who are more conventional will rarely take the time to build a good relationship by understanding her as an individual and knowing what motivates that type of horse.

Your first thought may be that you need to wear spurs. Spurs are not an effective way to get a horse to go or speed up. If anything, you may make her more dull or downright mad at you if you use spurs inappropriately.

Another conventional approach may be to whip the horse to get her to go.

None of these strategies are effective and they definitely don’t build trust, rapport or respect.
Being a Control Freak

The other side of the coin is the horse that doesn’t even know you’re in the room. All that’s on her mind is going forward and as fast as she can. First of all, this type of horse is dangerous to ride if she’s not emotionally and mentally with you… that’s a lesson for another day.

From a micro-management standpoint, you may hold the reins tight, always applying pressure and hoping she doesn’t run off with you.

On the ground, this type of horse is usually hard to lead because she’s thinking forward all the time and almost coming over the top of you. The micro-management solution to this situation is to hold her tight and short, just like you may do with the reins in the saddle.

In reality, this approach makes her worse. In other words, she becomes more emotionally unstable and, in turn, more dangerous.

Funny, isn’t it… conventional micro-management approaches cause the dull horse to become more dull and the forward one to become more forward.

… not working at all like you hoped, right?
Non-Conformist Strategies

If you’re reading this article, you’re probably somewhat of a non-conformist. You’re not one of those people I described above. More likely, you’re looking for answers because you want to have a great relationship with your equine companion and because you want to have fun and enjoy her company.

It’s pretty hard to enjoy the horse who wants to take off with you or the dull horse who won’t go. The dull horse may also become dominant and scary. This type usually frightens you because she becomes pushy and may also bite. She’s usually described as lazy when she’s really not lazy, she’s just smarter than you.

When I hear somebody talk about a horse or a cow being stupid, I figure it’s a sure sign that animal has outfoxed them.” ~ Tom Dorrance

The forward horse can be scary, too. What if she runs off with you or runs over you? That’s not much fun, is it?

So what do you do about it? Take everything I listed above that the conventional person does… and just do the opposite. Really… it works.

Okay… that’s not much help is it?

I’ve heard people make fun of the concept of understanding horse psychology, but my personal opinion is that those people don’t know equines, and that’s why they say such things.

The important thing to grasp is that you have to understand horses from their point of view. When you truly feel it in your heart and you’re empathetic with your equine companion, something somewhat magical happens.

I’m not going to sugar coat it; you have to work at it.

You have to become more skilled and knowledgeable and then more confident, but at the same time you have to always put your horse first. You love your horse, you’re empathetic and you do everything you can to fully understand her as an individual.

I personally apply this concept to my own horses and with any other one I come in contact with. I put our relationship first before anything, but that doesn’t mean I don’t have goals or ambition. I make it a priority to stick to my principles first and learn the game of balance.

This is not easy. I strive to become more connected with my equine companion each and every day, and at the same time fight the fact that I’m human. Sometimes it’s not easy to look at yourself and see what’s in the mirror.

It’s not an easy road and it’s not for everyone. However, it is for you if you seek that “something” you know is possible with a horse but that you feel is indescribable.

It’s something that only a nutty horse person who is a true lover of equines can understand.
Micro-Management is Ineffective

If you take nothing else away from this article, it’s important to understand that your horse feels a lot like you do when you’re micro-managed. As long as you understand this, feel it in your heart and make it a point to not do it to your equine companion, you’ll be amazed at the results you’ll see.

Micro-management affects your relationship with your horse in a negative way, so find ways to not micro-manage by allowing her to make a mistake and commit to it. Only then is it necessary to correct her and sometimes not…. it depends, right?

It’s a lot like parents and kids. It’s so hard to allow your child to make a mistake, but that’s usually the best way for her to learn, through experience. Your horse is not much different.

However, if you attempt to correct too soon, you’ll get no where and your relationship will suffer.

What creative ways have you developed with your horse so you can refine your communication and not micro-manage her? Share it with our readers in the comment section.

Non-traditionally Yours,
Stephanie Krahl"

Here is what I took away from this: relax. The horse knows his job, but you have to be willing to let him do it for you. I know this will be extremely difficult for me, but I know that I need to let Ruby go instead of anticipating her bad behavior. Yes, she might dart out, she might stop, and she might try to step on me...but she won't want to do anything if I keep getting in her way. If she misbehaves, I will correct it then, but not before.

Easier said than done right?

Lesson with Harry

"Plenty time, plenty time..."

I had my first ever lesson with Harry de Leyer (riding with Connie) and I can say this for sure: DAMN!

Usually, when you ride with a trainer who knows nothing about you, you end up on their dead broke horse, walk, trot, canter, and then do some negligible jumps or trot poles. This is exactly what I expected...and it is not what I got!

After a few minutes of warming up (and I mean literally, a few) we did a small corssrail (oh good, something I am good it). I figured that we would stick to about 2 ft practicing and getting used to the horse. Well, what-do-you-know, then all of a sudden Harry says "okay do that line of 4 jumps on the diagonal." Doesn't sound too bad does it? Wrong. Okay, who cares about the number of jumps, the lines, the distances- all that I can do since I have been practicing so many gymnastics with Ruby; it's the height that gets me! You have to understand- I ride Ruby pretty much all the time, and she is a "squirrel-y" 14.2hh pony that I usually only jump about 2'3" or 2'6" ish right now. When I told Harry this, he simply said "eh, it is only three and a half feet, go!"

I did go. I had a death grip on my reins (so sorry Cherry!), my helmet fell over my eyes from looking straight down at the ground, and I think my lower leg swung back so far that I was baffled that I didn't kick myself in the ass. But I did go.

It took a few tries, but I did get a little better towards the end. That line became my friend, and out the the 9 jumps he gave me to do, those four quickly became my favorite. Although this lesson was difficult for me (I was a little out of my league), I am still proud of myself for finishing and pushing myself out (way out) of my comfort zone.

Here is what I learned:
1. I ride defensively. Well, I guess that happens when you ride a pony that tends to do everything but go OVER a jump!

2. I get nervous. I don't mean the butterfly nervous- I mean major panic. I have done gymnastics with more components than I could keep track of, but once the jumps get big, it's like the world falls apart...and I rush (just get it over with). Maybe I should bring some liquor with me next time!

3. I hang on my left rein. I don't have a reason for that one, but apparently I do!

4. There is still hope! Harry must have liked something- maybe it was my snarky remarks I made at myself when I messed up, or the fact that I just keep trying. He seemed to think that with a little work (5 lessons, actually) I could do the big jumpers (with a nice horse and not a pony) haha. We'll see! I will go back in a few months for another lesson, after I practice my automatic release.

Harry has a very interesting story, and is most well known for his horses Snowman and the training of Sinjon. Check out information about Harry and Snowman here: Eighty-Dollar Champion. I am in the process of reading this book, and it amazes me what a fantastic horseman Harry is!

For those of you thinking about pushing your boundaries and trying out some bigger jumps for yourself, I highly recommend taking a lesson with Harry at Nederland Farm (near Charlottesville)!

Trot Pole Exercise: Riding a Chute

"Once you get started, she has to commit"

This weeks exercise was as follows:

o   o   o   o       8          8          o8

No pictures of my lesson (Dan was busy tacking up for his lesson on Dallas). Unfortunate, because Ruby and I did really well in this lesson!

As poles, I approached this going both ways. These poles were then raised to small crass rails, which can also be approached both ways. Once the jumps got higher, I approached this line starting with the trot poles. The two middle jumps were kept as small crossrails and the final jump was slowly raised. The best part about this sort of exercise: she has to keep going forward- there is  no wiggle room for her to dart out, and (although I suppose she could stop/refuse if she really wanted to), she does not have room to misbehave. Awesome confidence-boosting exercise for those who are just starting out with jumping, and for unpredictable ponies.

Quest for a Saddle

 "Bring your leg back!"

I hate that phrase. Why? Well, because I hear it all the time and can't do a whole lot about it. My saddle has never fit me well and it pushes me back, thus causing my feet to come forward. Sometimes it is so bad that I kick Ruby's front feet when we are cantering! I finally got so tired of doing that, that I decided to stop being cheap and look for a new saddle. I am glad I did! I have learned a lot about how saddles should fit (both myself and Ruby), the effects a non-fitting saddle can have on both of us, and the difference a good saddle really makes. 

After spending months trying to find a manufactured used saddle that fit:
     a. My tiny butt but super long thighs and
     b. Short but round (and nearly wither-less) pony

I decided that it was time to bite the bullet and make in investment in a custom saddle. Here are my findings so far (I will keep out my negative comments so as not to hurt the company's sales; a saddle that may not have worked for Ruby and I might still work for you!)

Note: my budget for this saddle was $3000-3500; unfortunately, I am not a riding snob that had everything handed to me on a silver platter (damn). With my rent & living expenses+ Ruby's rent & living expenses+ student loans, I needed to find a saddle that fit in this price range (at the most).

I first met with CWD. The 2g saddle was my favorite, but a bit out of my price range ($6700 new). The wait time for one of these saddles is about 20 weeks, so if you know when you would like to have your saddle, get it well in advance! As an engineer, I was not sold on this company’s sell point for this saddle. However, the representative was very friendly and answered my questions. We did not go over the saddle fit on my horse, but compared the saddles on the ground. There was no travel charge for my consultation. My consultant told me that Antares and Devoucoux saddles are made the same way (and follow the same principles) as CWD, so if you like CWD, chances are, you will like those two brands. You can find Antares and Devoucoux saddles used on the CDW website, if you are looking to save some money.

Second was County Saddlery. The representative I had was very patient with me (and my million questions) and went through my saddle step-by-step (on my horse) to show me which points were causing issues with my current saddle fit (way more information than I could absorb at one time). She was very knowledgeable on fitting and (don’t quote me on this) I believe representatives have master saddler certifications (the US version). The saddle I liked was right in my price range: $3300. She was very honest, and even made critiques on her own saddle fits for myself and Ruby. There was no travel charge for my consultation. Wait time for these saddles are approximately 10 weeks. Saddles come with a warranty that states the the saddle can be re-treed or reflocked one year after you receive the saddle (there is still a hefty fee to have this done).

Third was Stackhouse. These saddles have a set price of $5500. They are hand made by David Stackhouse and his partner Lesley. Everything on this saddle is custom fit and made per your preference- tree, flaps, knee rolls, blocks, leather color…, even your keepers. Wait time for these saddles is unbelievable- you will get your saddle in a week (construction starts on Monday, completed Wednesday, and shipped by that Friday). A little over budget, but still in the running simply because I would get this saddle so fast.

Next up is Hastilow. The travel fee to come to my barn in Virginia was about $180, but still less than what I expected! My meeting is next Friday. So far, I have heard good things about this company (from this site), and the representative has been very helpful and super good about finding out exactly what I am looking for so I will not have to pay for any more trips here than is necessary. I am most concerned about saddle fit should mine (or Ruby’s) body change. I was assure that these saddles can be reflocked at any time, and some saddles have interchangeable gullets as well. I will be trying saddles that are within my budget range only. Wait time for these saddles is about 6 weeks.

Update: Hastilow performed a thorough check of my saddle fit (to show me what points were not fitting correctly), took an entire page worth of measurements for both myself and Ruby, fitted about a dozen saddles to Ruby, narrowed the pile down to the ones that fit the best, then decided on three for me to ride with. Wait time for custom saddles is about 6 weeks. The representative was very knowledgeable about saddle fitting, the engineering behind the saddle, and saddle quality codes (UK standards).  

I have spoken with Tad Coffin and Centaur Saddlery, but have not been able to schedule appointments. A friend of mine has a Tad Saddle and highly recommends it- you can get saddles from him within my budget range. However, other saddlers have stated that the Tad saddles are "one size fits all."

Update: Never did hear back from Centaur, but did get some information on Tad Coffin saddles. These saddles do not work for everyone- although you will have a very well made and very comfortable saddle, they are "on size fits all" for the horses. Tad Coffin saddles are "made" to fit by using saddle pads and risers. Unless your horse fits the description/shape for these saddles without the extra padding, you are better off going with a different company that will fit the saddle to your horse. Saddle price starts at about $2,800.

I have asked each saddler I have met with about their opinions on the other saddlers I will meet. Everyone was very professional but honest about it- giving both pros and cons for their competition. Again, I will not share what I was told, as I consider this information confidential. Also, each saddler I have spoken with has been very gracious in terms of payment plans. Down payments are typically $1000, but if you need some extra time to pay off the rest, most saddlers will be more than happy to make arrangements with you. I also made a point to ask each saddler about the re-sale value of their saddles. If I find one I love but can’t afford right now, I can buy a similar saddle for less with the same saddler and resell in a few years, or trade in. Most saddles (if you take care of them) seem to hold their value pretty well (minus about $800-$1000).

Hope this helps anyone else who is looking! Any more suggestions/comments/arguments (for or against) are always welcome.

Update: I have chosen the Hastilow Saddle! Great price, lifetime warranty, exchangeable tree pieces, first re-flocking is free, fits Ruby perfectly, fits my awkward frame perfectly, reasonable wait time for custom saddles (6 weeks), many color and style options,  decent customer service, AND Hastilow is one of the few Master Saddlers in the United States- what's to dislike? Giving the saddle 90 days of riding to break it in, but so far everything has gone really well with this saddle.

Dan's First Lesson- Significant Others and Riding

"Did you ask him to trot??"

Honestly, I got lucky- I found a boyfriend who was at least a little curious about riding horses. Looking back at fellow barn girls, I can't say I remember seeing boyfriends/husbands on a horse except on a few rare occasions- if they came to the barn at all. I do know that a lot of my old barn buddies claimed that "riding is my thing and baseball/golf/hunting/whatever is his" but come on, I can't be the only equestrian female out there that fantasizes about horseback picnics... One little bit of interest and I am all for Dan learning how to ride!

I forced Connie to multitask today- I took a lesson with Dan so that he wouldn't be riding around with me staring at him and struggling to keep my mouth shut (yeah, I'm one of those people who twitches when I see someone else ride...sometimes I even "ride" for them by leaning or  pulling my invisible reins).

Anyway, I decided to stay occupied and keep out of his way. Connie's assessment was thus: "He is just like my husband! He has no fear and even sits the same way Jeff does!" This meant that when we were walking around the round pen getting used to the horses, Dan decided that walking was too boring and started trotting around. Ha. So cute. I ride English (obviously), but Dan wants to learn Western and be a "manly man" or whatever. I don't really care what discipline he chooses, as long as he can one day ride Ruby for me!

I love you Dan!!!

 Dan in his first lesson 

riding Jimmy!

 Thanks to my sister Julia for these pictures!

Trot Pole Exercise: Jumping on the Curve

"Ruby wants to be a barrel racer"

The exercise for this week was as follows (ignore my shoddy paint skills- I realized I couldn't draw this out using just 8's and o's like I usually do):

These started off as poles and were raised to crossrails as the lesson progressed. First, trot the pole/jump on the top rail. Next, trot the pole/jump on the top rail and then add the next pole on the side rail. Finally, do the pole/jump on the top rail, the pole on the side rail, then the bending line to your corner. Change direction. Pay attention to your diagonals, and try to keep your horse balanced through these turns (which were actually pretty tight in my riding ring). To keep your horse interested, make different patterns with these poles/jumps (if you do the same thing over and over, you AND your horse might get a little burnt out). This exercise is very simple, but is a great way to get your horse used to going over jumps that are not in a straight line. With Ruby, the challenge was to keep her calm coming out of the side jump going to the bending line (she will rush the bending line and lean through her turn).


You and your horse should both be relaxed when going over these poles. For over-thinkers/over-analyzers, keep looking up and ahead- the more you focus on the pole, the tighter you will get! You can tell here that I am a bit stiff and am not following with my hands. It is important to relax so your horse can do the same!








To the right is a great picture of Ruby- this is how I want her to look: she is relaxed, her head is down, and she is extending over the pole.








This lesson was uneventful (according to our standards). No lesson next week because of travel plans, but I'm sure Connie has another interesting exercise up her sleeve! As much as I hate trotting around all lesson (and trotting jumps- I find that very difficult as I want to get ahead of Ruby when we come up to the jump!), I know this is getting Ruby fit. She sweats less and less and is able to keep energy up longer now.