Happy Holidays from Ruby!
A blog about my Connemara cross pony Ruby, and the things we are learning as we go along!
Friday, December 27, 2013
Friday, October 4, 2013
Deworming Your Hose: When and Why?
"what does 'high shedder' mean?"
Although most barns have their own system or schedule for deworming their horses, there are a few things you should consider when deciding what is best for your horse. In my experience, there are two main ways this is done:
a. deworm based on fecal samples
b. deworm every X weeks
My method of choice is a- and here is why:
The horse industry struggles with parasite issues predominately because of parasite resistance. What this means is that horse owners will use a particular brand of dewormer to the point that it no longer works- the parasites adapt so that the dewormer no longer kills them (similar principle in humans with antibiotics and bacterial resistance; this is why we do not give people antibiotics every single time someone is sick- we make sure they actually have a bacterial infection first). This raises a few concerns, most importantly, how do I know if my dewormer is even working?
Well, you don't -unless you have a test done, or your horse becomes ill enough to show signs of parasite infestation.
Most every vet clinic will offer some sort of parasite prevention program. With my vet, you pay upfront for three fecal tests to be done during the year (sometimes more tests are needed if your horse is a high shedder). Once the test results are in, the vet will suggest a course of action: what type of dewormer to use (based on shed count and the species of the parasite), and how much your horse needs. This way, you are only treating horses that need to be treated.
What do the shed counts mean?
The test is looking for the parasite egg count. Low shedders refer to horses with a low egg count, meaning that their immune system is able to keep the number of parasites down. High shedders refer to horses with a high egg count because of an inability to naturally keep these parasites in check. Although it is estimated that only about 30% of the horse population is classified as high shedders, they will produce 80% of the parasite eggs in the pasture! This is why it is EXTREMELY important that all boarders participate in some kind of deworming schedule or program: if one horse is not being dewormed, it can very well contaminate the field and expose the other horses to high levels of parasites.
Is there a way to get rid of the parasites in the field?
The goal of deworming is not to get rid of all parasites (that would be impossible!), but to keep the number to a manageable level. That being said, if you have multiple horses in a field that are having issues, veterinarians will usually recommend more frequent doses for these horses. Some people advise harrowing the fields to break up the manure to keep parasite levels down. However, this method is a bit controversial, as it is not sure whether it really helps or not. A good rule of thumb is to keep the fields clean- remove manure periodically, do not spread manure over grazing fields, and practice good field management.
Isn't the deworming program kind-of a scam? I mean, why would I pay to see what is going on if I regularly deworm my horse?
Actually, some people SAVE money by using the program! For instance, last year on the program, Ruby was a 'low shedder' in all three of her tests. This means she did not need to be dewormed (I did do it once just to kill tapeworms which are not included in the egg count). If my sample program was $30 for the year, well, that is much less than the previous barn, where I was paying $11-$14 every 90 days for their deworming program. Plus, you need to consider the parasite resistance: what do you think happens when you give your horse a dewormer that, unbeknownst to you, is not effective? You are wasting your money and offending your horses gut...for nothing. You are also causing a serious issue for other boarders because your horse will continue to contaminate the field, exposing them to high counts of worms that should otherwise not be present.
The fecal sample program is fairly new, but please do not discount it's importance for the sake of 'tradition.' Also keep in mind that your decision in how to care for your horse is your sole responsibility, but when it effects others' horses, it is even more important to gain as much knowledge as you can in order to make an informed decision.
Although most barns have their own system or schedule for deworming their horses, there are a few things you should consider when deciding what is best for your horse. In my experience, there are two main ways this is done:
a. deworm based on fecal samples
b. deworm every X weeks
My method of choice is a- and here is why:
The horse industry struggles with parasite issues predominately because of parasite resistance. What this means is that horse owners will use a particular brand of dewormer to the point that it no longer works- the parasites adapt so that the dewormer no longer kills them (similar principle in humans with antibiotics and bacterial resistance; this is why we do not give people antibiotics every single time someone is sick- we make sure they actually have a bacterial infection first). This raises a few concerns, most importantly, how do I know if my dewormer is even working?
Well, you don't -unless you have a test done, or your horse becomes ill enough to show signs of parasite infestation.
Most every vet clinic will offer some sort of parasite prevention program. With my vet, you pay upfront for three fecal tests to be done during the year (sometimes more tests are needed if your horse is a high shedder). Once the test results are in, the vet will suggest a course of action: what type of dewormer to use (based on shed count and the species of the parasite), and how much your horse needs. This way, you are only treating horses that need to be treated.
The most common parasites in horses are called strongyles.
What do the shed counts mean?
The test is looking for the parasite egg count. Low shedders refer to horses with a low egg count, meaning that their immune system is able to keep the number of parasites down. High shedders refer to horses with a high egg count because of an inability to naturally keep these parasites in check. Although it is estimated that only about 30% of the horse population is classified as high shedders, they will produce 80% of the parasite eggs in the pasture! This is why it is EXTREMELY important that all boarders participate in some kind of deworming schedule or program: if one horse is not being dewormed, it can very well contaminate the field and expose the other horses to high levels of parasites.
Is there a way to get rid of the parasites in the field?
The goal of deworming is not to get rid of all parasites (that would be impossible!), but to keep the number to a manageable level. That being said, if you have multiple horses in a field that are having issues, veterinarians will usually recommend more frequent doses for these horses. Some people advise harrowing the fields to break up the manure to keep parasite levels down. However, this method is a bit controversial, as it is not sure whether it really helps or not. A good rule of thumb is to keep the fields clean- remove manure periodically, do not spread manure over grazing fields, and practice good field management.
Isn't the deworming program kind-of a scam? I mean, why would I pay to see what is going on if I regularly deworm my horse?
Actually, some people SAVE money by using the program! For instance, last year on the program, Ruby was a 'low shedder' in all three of her tests. This means she did not need to be dewormed (I did do it once just to kill tapeworms which are not included in the egg count). If my sample program was $30 for the year, well, that is much less than the previous barn, where I was paying $11-$14 every 90 days for their deworming program. Plus, you need to consider the parasite resistance: what do you think happens when you give your horse a dewormer that, unbeknownst to you, is not effective? You are wasting your money and offending your horses gut...for nothing. You are also causing a serious issue for other boarders because your horse will continue to contaminate the field, exposing them to high counts of worms that should otherwise not be present.
The fecal sample program is fairly new, but please do not discount it's importance for the sake of 'tradition.' Also keep in mind that your decision in how to care for your horse is your sole responsibility, but when it effects others' horses, it is even more important to gain as much knowledge as you can in order to make an informed decision.
Tuesday, October 1, 2013
Fun Show at Heldergate
"I guess all we needed was some war paint!"
Had a blast at Heldergate's "friends and family" show last weekend! Ruby was super adorable in her war pony costume, the people were great, the judge was excellent, and the food was delicious.

Above and right: Ruby and I showing off her costume! Although she is NOT a fan of having her face touched, Ruby was a champ about letting me put that paint circle around her eye.
I used a water-based face paint which I picked up a Michael's (most craft stores have this sort of thing). My one warning is this: be prepared for a stained horse! This did not wash off as well as I had hoped, and my pony ended up having a pink face!
Left: Ruby and I in our Special Hunter class. We competed in Green Hunter (wt, wtc, 18" o/f) and the Special Hunter o/f. For the Greens, we decided to trot the course (6 jumps at 18"-2'), mostly for my benefit. The judge then requested that we canter for our last class....Ruby was PERFECT! Nice and relaxed, great rhythm, perfect distances, and she even got her lead changes. Considering the long road we have taken to get our confidence back, this is huge for us- and finally gives me hope that we are back on our way to getting where we once were (3' jumper courses).
After the show, the judge approached me to say that, in all her years of judging, she had only seen a few teams that were perfect for each other- and that Ruby and I were one of them! I get comments fairly often from trainers and boarders about how obviously Ruby is bonded to me, but I had no idea it translated that much into our riding. Love this pony!
Had a blast at Heldergate's "friends and family" show last weekend! Ruby was super adorable in her war pony costume, the people were great, the judge was excellent, and the food was delicious.

Above and right: Ruby and I showing off her costume! Although she is NOT a fan of having her face touched, Ruby was a champ about letting me put that paint circle around her eye.
I used a water-based face paint which I picked up a Michael's (most craft stores have this sort of thing). My one warning is this: be prepared for a stained horse! This did not wash off as well as I had hoped, and my pony ended up having a pink face!
Left: Ruby and I in our Special Hunter class. We competed in Green Hunter (wt, wtc, 18" o/f) and the Special Hunter o/f. For the Greens, we decided to trot the course (6 jumps at 18"-2'), mostly for my benefit. The judge then requested that we canter for our last class....Ruby was PERFECT! Nice and relaxed, great rhythm, perfect distances, and she even got her lead changes. Considering the long road we have taken to get our confidence back, this is huge for us- and finally gives me hope that we are back on our way to getting where we once were (3' jumper courses).
After the show, the judge approached me to say that, in all her years of judging, she had only seen a few teams that were perfect for each other- and that Ruby and I were one of them! I get comments fairly often from trainers and boarders about how obviously Ruby is bonded to me, but I had no idea it translated that much into our riding. Love this pony!
Tuesday, September 17, 2013
The Woes of Being a Show Hitchhiker
"I wish I could go, but my ride fell through!"
Now that Ruby and I have decided to give the show world a try, we have discovered (with much pain, disappointment, and frustration) how incredibly difficult it can be just to get your horse to a show. I have met many barn-mates who were fortunate enough to be born into families who had the money to buy so-and-so a nice new truck and trailer (and chiropractic visits, and nice new saddles, and hey -even board costs!), but this was not my fate. Any and all horse-related financial burdens are entirely my own.
Growing up as a very strong-willed, independent woman, nothing irks me more than having to rely on someone else- especially when Ruby is involved. But what options are even out there?
1. Continue to "beg" rides off horse-y friends who have the equipment you need. This can include a wide variety of arrangements: some friends will take you and your horse for free, some will charge you gas, some will charge you gas and time, and some will refuse to take you at all. A general rule of thumb when hitchhiking for a ride is to offer to pay for gas -or in my case, I generally offer to pay for my ride's classes provided it does not overly exceed the standard going rate for hauling (about $1.75 per mile in my area).
2. Look for a professional hauling company. Although this will guarantee your horse is being transported by a professional (with the proper truck to haul the trailer, and up-to-date inspection stickers), these can be very pricey or completely unavailable depending on your location.
3. Only participate in "home" shows. There are plenty of boarding barns out there that will host shows. This is a very economical option for those who are boarding at one such facility. If not, well...
4. Buy your own trailer. Before we hop into the "okay, trailer shopping!" train, there are some important things to consider: Do you have a truck that has the towing capacity to safely tow your trailer AND everything inside (shavings, tack box, horse, buckets, etc.)? Does this truck also have the stopping capacity required to safely come to a complete stop with this load? If no, you may not want to buy a trailer just yet- if you can't tow it, you will again be at the mercy of others to find a truck that can tow you.
*note: not all is lost if you do not have a truck. You might find a fellow rider who has the truck but no trailer- you can always try to arrange something in this case. If a friend provides the truck and you provide the trailer, plan to go to show together free of charge.
So what else do you need to know before going trailer shopping?
Right now, I have figured the following:
1. It the trailer safe? Can I put it to use right away? Are any repairs needed?
2. Does the trailer come with a title (watch out for scams here!)
3. Does the trailer have working brakes/lights?
4. How many horses does it hold (I am looking for two horse)?
5. When was the trailer last inspected?
6. How old is the trailer (do some research on trailer models to see if it is what you need)?
7. Is the trailer bumper-pull or gooseneck?
8. Is the trailer a slant-load or straight-load? Ramp or stock?
9. How heavy is the trailer? Is is steel frame? Aluminum? (Aluminum will be much lighter, but some argue not as safe)
I will add as I figure out more!
Now that Ruby and I have decided to give the show world a try, we have discovered (with much pain, disappointment, and frustration) how incredibly difficult it can be just to get your horse to a show. I have met many barn-mates who were fortunate enough to be born into families who had the money to buy so-and-so a nice new truck and trailer (and chiropractic visits, and nice new saddles, and hey -even board costs!), but this was not my fate. Any and all horse-related financial burdens are entirely my own.
Growing up as a very strong-willed, independent woman, nothing irks me more than having to rely on someone else- especially when Ruby is involved. But what options are even out there?
1. Continue to "beg" rides off horse-y friends who have the equipment you need. This can include a wide variety of arrangements: some friends will take you and your horse for free, some will charge you gas, some will charge you gas and time, and some will refuse to take you at all. A general rule of thumb when hitchhiking for a ride is to offer to pay for gas -or in my case, I generally offer to pay for my ride's classes provided it does not overly exceed the standard going rate for hauling (about $1.75 per mile in my area).
2. Look for a professional hauling company. Although this will guarantee your horse is being transported by a professional (with the proper truck to haul the trailer, and up-to-date inspection stickers), these can be very pricey or completely unavailable depending on your location.
3. Only participate in "home" shows. There are plenty of boarding barns out there that will host shows. This is a very economical option for those who are boarding at one such facility. If not, well...
4. Buy your own trailer. Before we hop into the "okay, trailer shopping!" train, there are some important things to consider: Do you have a truck that has the towing capacity to safely tow your trailer AND everything inside (shavings, tack box, horse, buckets, etc.)? Does this truck also have the stopping capacity required to safely come to a complete stop with this load? If no, you may not want to buy a trailer just yet- if you can't tow it, you will again be at the mercy of others to find a truck that can tow you.
*note: not all is lost if you do not have a truck. You might find a fellow rider who has the truck but no trailer- you can always try to arrange something in this case. If a friend provides the truck and you provide the trailer, plan to go to show together free of charge.
So what else do you need to know before going trailer shopping?
Right now, I have figured the following:
1. It the trailer safe? Can I put it to use right away? Are any repairs needed?
2. Does the trailer come with a title (watch out for scams here!)
3. Does the trailer have working brakes/lights?
4. How many horses does it hold (I am looking for two horse)?
5. When was the trailer last inspected?
6. How old is the trailer (do some research on trailer models to see if it is what you need)?
7. Is the trailer bumper-pull or gooseneck?
8. Is the trailer a slant-load or straight-load? Ramp or stock?
9. How heavy is the trailer? Is is steel frame? Aluminum? (Aluminum will be much lighter, but some argue not as safe)
I will add as I figure out more!
Monday, July 22, 2013
Ruby's First Horse Show
"Do you want to ride to win, or to train?"
I have always wanted to show Ruby, but, after all the road blocks, pitfalls, and complications, I assumed this was just not our future. After some nagging and harassing, a friend of mine finally convinced me to at least give showing a try.
Connie met me at the show (I asked her to be there in case I decided to freak out), and asked me "Do you want to ride to win, or to train?"
I said train, since this was our first show and I had no idea what Ruby would think of the whole thing!
Despite the 94 degree heat and absurd humidity, I tacked up my pony and headed out to the schooling ring. Walk, look around, walk, SPOOK at the flower box in the corner that eats horses for sure, walk, trot, rush past aforementioned horse-eating box, trot, relax. We left the schooling ring (we actually schooled in the wrong ring, but hey- first show means we are allowed a few mistakes!). Heat. Humidity. Cold Bath. More heat and more humidity...for a while there I though we would both drop! The classes I wanted to do (pony pleasure) were near the beginning of the show, so we did not have long to wait. I entered the walk-trot class, no expectations, and determined to get her to bend as we have been practicing in our lessons. She was perfect and we won the class. Well then, might as well do the next walk-go as you please class right? I mean, I can just walk-trot again...
Which we did. And won. With only one more class in the division, might as well do that too (since the heat hadn't quite killed us yet either). Won that too!

Super proud of my pony, not even for winning (although that is nice of course!). I knew she was nervous, but she stayed calm, listened well, and (as long as I didn't get out of her sight) behaved.
I have always wanted to show Ruby, but, after all the road blocks, pitfalls, and complications, I assumed this was just not our future. After some nagging and harassing, a friend of mine finally convinced me to at least give showing a try.
Connie met me at the show (I asked her to be there in case I decided to freak out), and asked me "Do you want to ride to win, or to train?"
I said train, since this was our first show and I had no idea what Ruby would think of the whole thing!
Despite the 94 degree heat and absurd humidity, I tacked up my pony and headed out to the schooling ring. Walk, look around, walk, SPOOK at the flower box in the corner that eats horses for sure, walk, trot, rush past aforementioned horse-eating box, trot, relax. We left the schooling ring (we actually schooled in the wrong ring, but hey- first show means we are allowed a few mistakes!). Heat. Humidity. Cold Bath. More heat and more humidity...for a while there I though we would both drop! The classes I wanted to do (pony pleasure) were near the beginning of the show, so we did not have long to wait. I entered the walk-trot class, no expectations, and determined to get her to bend as we have been practicing in our lessons. She was perfect and we won the class. Well then, might as well do the next walk-go as you please class right? I mean, I can just walk-trot again...
Which we did. And won. With only one more class in the division, might as well do that too (since the heat hadn't quite killed us yet either). Won that too!
Super proud of my pony, not even for winning (although that is nice of course!). I knew she was nervous, but she stayed calm, listened well, and (as long as I didn't get out of her sight) behaved.
Friday, July 12, 2013
Horse Personalities
"You and Ruby are exactly the same!"
Not going to lie, the first time I heard this, I was extremely offended! Ruby was moody, unpredictable, and (quite frankliy) a brat when I first met her. You can obviously see why I was not pleased when people kept telling me this!
Further into our relationship, I actually saw this to be true: we are both control freaks, pleasant with people but like our space, neither of us likes kids, both of us love cats and simply tolerate dogs, both of us take time to warm up to new people/are slightly nervous around new people, and (when situations get uncertain) both of us look to the other to figure it out (whoops on my part, but we both equally bail in certain circumstances).
I found this funny blog that lets you take a test to see your horse's personality: Horse Personality Test.
Ruby was: the Perfectionist (go figure)

Shy, suspicious, sensitive! Are you a solid, consistent enough rider with low enough expectations to be able to work with this horse? They need a solid, well planned out training program to be able to perform well. They want a job that they can perform perfectly. Each step in the training process needs to be methodical and repeated until they really, really get it. If things get too hard to handle, this horse's evasion is simply to leave - mentally, emotionally, and physically if possible. If they find a job they like and are allowed to learn it slowly and correctly, they will give you an endless amount of effort.
*When you take this test, you will also be given a few pages that describe your horse, how they react to certain situations, and training methods that work with this personality. Despite my usual suspicions, this breakdown was Ruby almost to a 't'!
Finally, some information that supports my anti-cookie-cutter beliefs on horse training!
Not going to lie, the first time I heard this, I was extremely offended! Ruby was moody, unpredictable, and (quite frankliy) a brat when I first met her. You can obviously see why I was not pleased when people kept telling me this!
Further into our relationship, I actually saw this to be true: we are both control freaks, pleasant with people but like our space, neither of us likes kids, both of us love cats and simply tolerate dogs, both of us take time to warm up to new people/are slightly nervous around new people, and (when situations get uncertain) both of us look to the other to figure it out (whoops on my part, but we both equally bail in certain circumstances).
I found this funny blog that lets you take a test to see your horse's personality: Horse Personality Test.
Ruby was: the Perfectionist (go figure)

Shy, suspicious, sensitive! Are you a solid, consistent enough rider with low enough expectations to be able to work with this horse? They need a solid, well planned out training program to be able to perform well. They want a job that they can perform perfectly. Each step in the training process needs to be methodical and repeated until they really, really get it. If things get too hard to handle, this horse's evasion is simply to leave - mentally, emotionally, and physically if possible. If they find a job they like and are allowed to learn it slowly and correctly, they will give you an endless amount of effort.
*When you take this test, you will also be given a few pages that describe your horse, how they react to certain situations, and training methods that work with this personality. Despite my usual suspicions, this breakdown was Ruby almost to a 't'!
Finally, some information that supports my anti-cookie-cutter beliefs on horse training!
Friday, June 7, 2013
Equine Photography- Protecting Your Images
"Wow, did she really steal my picture for her website?!"
I have no experience in photography and no training (besides skimming over the user's manual of my camera), but even I am aware of the copyright protection that your photos should have when you upload them to the internet. There is nothing more frustrating than seeing someone take one of your photos for their personal use without paying for it! I have had this happen to me; I got on a website and there was one of my images- no credit given at all- being used as marketing material...
So what can you do to protect your images?
1. Picasa: The easiest way to keep others from stealing your photos is to watermark them. Picasa is a free photo editing software that does a simplified version of a watermark for you- choose the photos you want to watermark, click file, click export, and check the watermark photos box. Enter your name here. When you export, your name will appear on the bottom right corner of your photos.
2. Photoshop: This program (depending on the version) can get pretty pricey, but it can do anything and everything you would ever need in terms of editing power and protection.
3. My way: I am as cheap as they come, and look for products that are free to use. Instead of having just my name on the photos, I decided to make myself a logo (stingray! my favorite animal) using Inkscape. It is a fairly intuitive vector design software that I use at work for graphics design- not nearly as fancy as Adobe's line of products, but it gets the job done. I also downloaded another program called TSR Watermark to add my Inkscape logo to my pictures.
Although there is always the asshole out there who will crop your watermark or photoshop it for themselves, I like to think that most people will respect your work. For more information on how to better protect your images and for information on copyrights, see here: Protect Images Online.
Below are my favorite pictures of my friend Lauren Thomas and "Evel Knievel" (Titan) and my trainer Connie Warner and Harry de Leyer's "Dutch Juliet" (Juliet). I stick my logo in the most annoying spot possible so it is more difficult to crop out.
I have no experience in photography and no training (besides skimming over the user's manual of my camera), but even I am aware of the copyright protection that your photos should have when you upload them to the internet. There is nothing more frustrating than seeing someone take one of your photos for their personal use without paying for it! I have had this happen to me; I got on a website and there was one of my images- no credit given at all- being used as marketing material...
So what can you do to protect your images?
1. Picasa: The easiest way to keep others from stealing your photos is to watermark them. Picasa is a free photo editing software that does a simplified version of a watermark for you- choose the photos you want to watermark, click file, click export, and check the watermark photos box. Enter your name here. When you export, your name will appear on the bottom right corner of your photos.
2. Photoshop: This program (depending on the version) can get pretty pricey, but it can do anything and everything you would ever need in terms of editing power and protection.
3. My way: I am as cheap as they come, and look for products that are free to use. Instead of having just my name on the photos, I decided to make myself a logo (stingray! my favorite animal) using Inkscape. It is a fairly intuitive vector design software that I use at work for graphics design- not nearly as fancy as Adobe's line of products, but it gets the job done. I also downloaded another program called TSR Watermark to add my Inkscape logo to my pictures.
Although there is always the asshole out there who will crop your watermark or photoshop it for themselves, I like to think that most people will respect your work. For more information on how to better protect your images and for information on copyrights, see here: Protect Images Online.
Below are my favorite pictures of my friend Lauren Thomas and "Evel Knievel" (Titan) and my trainer Connie Warner and Harry de Leyer's "Dutch Juliet" (Juliet). I stick my logo in the most annoying spot possible so it is more difficult to crop out.
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